Hemp in cosmetics: what the label tells you

Hemp seed oil, shown on the label under its INCI name Cannabis Sativa Seed Oil, is a conventional fatty substance, used for its emollient properties and comparable to other vegetable oils. It does not contain cannabinoids in any notable quantity. CBD extract, shown under the name Cannabidiol or Cannabis Sativa Extract, is by contrast formulated to bring the cannabinoid itself into the cosmetic texture. These two ingredients have neither the same origin in the plant, seed as against flower or leaf, nor the same cosmetic function.

Cannabidiol has been listed since February 2021 in the European Commission’s CosIng database, which catalogues the ingredients authorised in cosmetics. These products fall under European cosmetics regulation 1223/2009, which requires a safety assessment, a complete INCI list and the absence of any medical claim. Unlike ingested products, a CBD cosmetic does not fall within the scope of the Novel Food status, which is specific to food supplements and foods.

A hemp or CBD cosmetic may legally claim a moisturising function, a soothing effect on the sensation of the skin, or a nourishing function, provided it stays within the register of skincare. It may under no circumstances claim to treat acne, eczema or a diagnosed skin inflammation: such formulations fall under a therapeutic claim, reserved for products holding the status of a medicine or a medical device. Our article on how to assess a CBD cream, balm or gel sets out in detail the criteria to check before buying.

As for any CBD product marketed in France, a cosmetic must comply with a THC content of no more than 0.30% in the finished product, in application of the Conseil d’État decision of 29 December 2022. A serious brand supplies a certificate of analysis for the extract used, distinct from the overall cosmetic safety assessment required by the European regulation.

On a cosmetic, the INCI list (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients) remains the most reliable source for knowing what you are actually applying to your skin. Spotting Cannabidiol or Cannabis Sativa Seed Oil makes it possible to distinguish a product formulated with CBD from a simple seed-oil treatment, often sold at a lower price because of its simpler composition.

Are hemp oil and CBD the same thing in cosmetics?

No. Hemp seed oil is a fatty substance with no notable cannabinoid content, whereas CBD is a specific extract from the flower or the leaf, listed separately in the European ingredients database.

Can a CBD cosmetic treat acne or eczema?

No. These claims are reserved for medicines or medical devices. A CBD cosmetic may only claim a general skincare function, with no therapeutic promise.

How can you recognise a CBD cosmetic on a label?

By looking for the mention Cannabidiol or Cannabis Sativa Extract in the INCI list, to be distinguished from Cannabis Sativa Seed Oil, which designates seed oil without cannabinoids.

Is the THC content checked in CBD cosmetics?

Yes, in the same way as for any CBD product sold in France: the finished product must contain no more than 0.30% THC, verifiable via the certificate of analysis supplied by the manufacturer.