CBD topical cosmetics: how to assess a cream or a balm

Among CBD categories, cosmetics enjoy the most stable and most favourable legal framework in France:

• Pure CBD has been listed since February 2021 in the European Commission's CosIng database;
• The use of hemp leaves in cosmetics was authorised by the Commission in 2024;
• The Novel Food regulation does not apply (unlike CBD food supplements, restricted since 15 May 2026);
• No maximum content is imposed for CBD itself (the limit concerns residual THC contamination).

The consequence: since 2024-2025, many French brands have been repositioning their "wellbeing" oil ranges as "external use" cosmetic lines in order to escape Novel Food constraints. This migration is lawful, provided the formulation and labelling scrupulously respect the cosmetic framework.

The four formats share the same legal status but differ in their galenic form:

• Cream: a water-in-oil or oil-in-water emulsion, fluid to smooth in texture, quick to sink in. Suited to broad daily applications (face, body).
• Balm: dominated by the fatty phase (waxes, plant butters), dense in texture, leaving an occlusive film. Suited to targeted applications and rougher areas (elbows, knees, hands).
• Gel: a gelled aqueous phase, cool in texture, with an immediate sensation of freshness. Often paired with actives such as menthol, eucalyptol or camphor for a relaxing massage.
• Stick: a solid form in an applicator, precise dosing by gesture, better hygiene in use for repeated applications.

The choice depends on the area of application, the moment of use and the sensory experience you are after.

1. The INCI list

The INCI nomenclature (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients) is mandatory for any cosmetic sold in Europe under Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009. The CosIng names for hemp are:

• Cannabidiol: the isolated molecule (isolate or purified extract);
• Cannabis Sativa Leaf Extract: leaf extract;
• Cannabis Sativa Flower Extract: flower extract;
• Cannabis Sativa Seed Oil: seed oil (contains no CBD).

If you read "hemp oil" with no INCI detail, be wary: it may be seed oil (with no CBD) or a non-compliant wording.

2. The CBD dosage

No regulatory obligation requires the CBD content to be displayed on cosmetic labelling. Serious brands communicate it nonetheless:

• As a total in mg per container (e.g. 300 mg for a 30 ml jar);
• As mg per gram or per millilitre (e.g. 10 mg/ml);
• Ideally with an accessible certificate of analysis (CoA).

A complete absence of stated dosage is an unfavourable signal.

3. The claims

Regulation (EU) No 655/2013 governs cosmetic claims against six criteria: legal compliance, truthfulness, evidential support, honesty, fairness, and informed decision-making by the consumer.

For a CBD cosmetic, the admissible wordings remain cosmetic:

• "Hydration and comfort";
• "Soothes sensations of discomfort";
• "For sensitive or reactive skin";
• "Relaxing massage".

The wordings that are prohibited because they are therapeutic: "anti-inflammatory", "analgesic", "relieves joint pain", "treats eczema or psoriasis". The line is a clear one.

4. Traceability

A compliant CBD cosmetic must display:

• The name and address of the responsible person in the EU;
• The batch number;
• The date of minimum durability or the PAO (Period After Opening, open-jar pictogram);
• The nominal content.

And it must give access, ideally via a QR code or a web link, to a CoA stating the CBD content and compliance with THC ≤ 0.30%.

On the accompanying active phase, several ingredients have solid cosmetic documentation for use on sensitive skin or for massage:

• Shea, cocoa, mango (nourishing plant butters);
• Calendula, bisabolol, allantoin, panthenol (recognised soothers);
• Hemp oil, camelina oil (cutaneous omega-3);
• Menthol, camphor, eucalyptol for "cooling" gels.

To be avoided, particularly on sensitive skin: heavy synthetic fragrances, parabens (an unfavourable option in terms of consumer perception), glycol ethers (Annex III of the cosmetics regulation), sensitising preservatives (methylisothiazolinone in particular, which is restricted).

The ANSM runs the cosmetovigilance scheme that collects reports of adverse effects. In the event of a reaction (redness, itching, hives), report it:

• To the manufacturer (contact details on the packaging);
• To the ANSM via the reporting portal;
• To a healthcare professional if it persists.

The 2024 DGCCRF checks on the CBD sector found an infringement rate of around 15%, mainly on claims and labelling.

• CBD cosmetics are authorised in France under Regulation (EC) 1223/2009.
• CBD has been listed in the European CosIng database since 2021.
• Therapeutic claims (anti-inflammatory, analgesic, relieves pain) are prohibited.
• Four criteria for assessing a product: a full INCI list, a stated CBD dosage, compliant claims, analytical traceability.
• Any adverse effect must be reported through the ANSM cosmetovigilance scheme.

Is there a maximum CBD dose in a cosmetic?

No maximum dose is imposed by the European cosmetics regulation for CBD itself. The only limit is the residual THC content, which must stay below the acceptable contamination threshold (generally < 20 µg/g, with no official harmonised threshold).

Do more mg of CBD mean better efficacy?

Not mechanically. Beyond a certain threshold, the fatty phase of the formulation and the area of application determine the sensory experience more than the raw concentration does. Serious brands adjust dosage and galenic form to the intended use.

Can a CBD cosmetic penetrate deep into the skin?

CBD is lipophilic and can cross the stratum corneum, but its systemic distribution remains limited on healthy skin. The available studies do not allow a general pharmacological effect to be extrapolated from normal cosmetic use.

What is the difference between a CBD cosmetic and a pharmacy treatment?

Legal status: a cosmetic falls under Regulation 1223/2009 and cannot claim a therapeutic effect. A topical medicine from a pharmacy (a topical corticosteroid, an antifungal, and so on) holds a marketing authorisation with a regulated indication, dosage and duration of use.

How can I check that a CBD cosmetic is compliant?

Check for the exact INCI name, the name and address of the European responsible person, the batch number, and the date of minimum durability or PAO. Ask for the CoA. Read the claims: if they suggest a medical treatment, the product is not compliant.

CBD is not a medicine. In the event of a skin condition, consult a dermatologist. To explore our selection of CBD cosmetics, [see our catalogue](/categorie-produit).

• Conseil d'État, 29 Dec. 2022, No. 444887 (flowers/leaves) — primary
• Conseil d'État, interim order, 24 Jan. 2022, No. 460055 — primary
• Cour de cassation, criminal division, 14 Jan. 2025, series of rulings (24-81.076, 24-81.078, 24-81.365, 23-84.130, 23-85.359) — primary